Cosmetics Observation | Microcapsule Technology - Another Growth Point in the Era of Effective Skin Care?

In January this year, Givaudan announced the acquisition of a 48% minority stake in Nanovetores Group, a Brazilian supplier of active ingredients whose main business is the microencapsulation of active ingredients.

In the era of effective skincare, consumers' focus on a product is no longer limited to the ingredient list, but rather they want to understand whether the formula can truly deliver its claimed efficacy, including whether the active ingredients can remain active and to what extent they can be absorbed by the skin. These consumer concerns are also difficulties in the R&D of effective skincare products, and microencapsulation technology is one of the solutions.

Microencapsulation technology can encapsulate unstable and easily deactivated active ingredients such as Vitamin C, avoiding external influences such as light and air to prolong shelf life and reduce the addition of preservatives in the formula. Incompatible ingredients can also be encapsulated separately through this technology to achieve a multi-functional formula.

Microcapsules are also a carrier that promotes absorption. For example, under the protection of a lipophilic shell, hydrophilic ingredients can be delivered deeper into the skin, and the control of ingredient release by microencapsulation technology can also make the ingredients more targeted in their effect. At the same time, microcapsule sustained release is often used for "strong" ingredients to reduce skin irritation.

According to publicly available information from Nanovetores, the sustained release process of its microencapsulated ingredients can be triggered by five different conditions: water, temperature, pH, enzymes, and friction. Moreover, the ingredients can penetrate the stratum corneum into the epidermis to maximize the effect. The shell of the microcapsule not only protects the ingredients inside, but also has skincare benefits itself. For example, lipid particles have moisturizing effects, while biopolymer particles help to firm the skin.

According to data from Allied Market Research, in 2018, the market size of microencapsulated ingredients in the Asia-Pacific region reached US$120 million. The agency predicts that this figure will reach US$190 million in 2026, with a compound annual growth rate of 6.0%, while the growth rate in the Chinese market will reach 6.8%. With consumers' more refined requirements for beauty products, this market will continue to grow.

In recent years, more and more skincare and makeup products filled with small particles or small bubbles have appeared in the beauty market. This often involves the application of microencapsulation technology. In addition to practicality, such products can also bring consumers a fresh visual and sensory experience. From classic products to new domestic products, microencapsulation technology is increasingly entering the public eye.